you can’t even see the start of the wave. It’s too far away. And it’s a long way back. Paddling out at the top gulley can be tricky on a big swell. If you miss the bottom gully coming in ...

If the heart of surfing is about connecting, then there’s likely little more you can do than tandem surf with your young, frothing grommie. Bringing the next generation into the fold of what surfing ...