You’ll no longer find garlic braids at South Yarra’s Thirty Eight Chairs. The red-and-white checked paper in the bread bowls? Also gone. And the signature hanging logs of salami are now stored in the ...

“I’m Italian, so I feel very at home in Carlton,” says Gino Forlano, co-owner of Thirty Eight Chairs. “So many people who live here came from Italy, or their parents did. To open a restaurant here is ...