“THIS ISN’T INDIA. This is Kashmir,” a fellow passenger told me as we landed at the Srinagar airport. Now, as if cued by the scenery—striking alpine vistas of snowcapped mountains surrounding a vast ...

A visitor to the mountain state understands that the Valley’s splendour and changed reality co-exist whether we accept or not.

At 25, Shabnam Bashir has mapped 16 hidden valleys in Bandipora, Kashmir, bringing them onto the tourism map. Her solo treks ...

The journey from Islamabad to Muzaffarabad, the capital of Azad Jammu and Kashmir, is a memorable one. Mine was made over 17 years ago when most folk were fixated on Al Qaeda, though Kashmiri militant ...