Back at the station, I leave Shelita and climb on board the Indian Pacific in time for a late breakfast. As the train heaves off from Broken Hill, an orchestra of squeaks, rattles and creaks starts up ...

Three hours: that’s how long it takes Shelita Buffet to get ready. There are false eyelashes to glue and cheekbones to contour; there’s a neon-bright wig to preen and a sequined pink leotard to tug on ...